F & # 39; Chanel, collection 'BOY' (foundation, lip balm and eye pen) arrives at the French brand stores during this month of & # 39; January. Join & # 39; Givenchy, Tom Ford or Jean-Paul Gaultier, who have already started the adventure with similar products.
This revolution bathroom, mediated by pieces b & # 39; success as Bilal Hassani, has yet to be put into perspective: according to the research agency of the Mintel market, only 5% & # 39; new products & # 39; Beauty and & # 39; launched beauty around the world are men.
But if leaving makeup on the road is still uncommon, for Georges Vigarello, specialized in historical representations and corporal practices, creating & # 39; makeup men is part of "Calling the genre" good question.
The era & # 39; pioneers
"I feel that incorporated something different," Arthur Lefebvre says. Students who are 19 years old & # 39; cultural mediation in & # 39; Sorbonne, he started to wear makeup on his arrival at & # 39; Paris in & # 39; in September 2018, initially to embrace the "code queer ". "We are not afraid to go beyond, we out of the ordinary," before Valentin Wimmer, student & # 39; 18-year license in English Strasbourg, alleging that he is also gay.
"Those who engage in & # 39; this practice have the feeling that they are a bit & # 39; pioneer," Georges Vigarello continue. The LGBT community is at the forefront of this evolution, but that the latter is starting to go beyond its initial framework.
The progressive affirmation of women in the public sphere, in the field of sports or the world of work, means "The male status moves" to "A number of & # 39; other qualities", t and "Sensitivity, softness or aesthetics", t Judge Georges Vigarello. The code & # 39; old-fashioned virility "To some extent, m & # 39; longer makes sense".
The opportunity & # 39; business
In the United States, male makeup users like Manny MUA or Jeffreestar already have more than ten million subscribers and even launch their own cosmetics brands. In France, the YouTubeurs beauty still little. But from the beginning of 2010, the precursor (Richaard2609, Maxime MakeupPro or Beautyction, among others) are already followed by hundreds & # 39; & # 39 thousands; Internet users.
The cosmetics brands also xaqqew agreement, did make some of these influential their ambassadors. Richaard2609 became one of the faces of the French Sephora on social networks. In his channel, he offers tutorials and product testing.
In Sephora des Champs-Elysées, where Richard worked, he "Current lot" that men ask for the form. The store m & # 39; has male makeup department but refers to the collection "Mister" of & # 39; Givenchy by 21 & # 39; January.
Sephora is often cited by young men, especially for inclusive aspect of & # 39; some brands referred. Valentin Wimmer buy its base, some creams, foundation and powder. Ditto for Dubreuilh Antoine, 24, consultant & # 39; the image in & # 39; boutique ready to wear in & # 39; Paris. "Manly type" b & # 39; "The side of the gamer ', this young man surrounded by alternating between products & # 39; very soft colors and more showy according occasions.
Evolution & # 39; aesthetic code
The shape becomes unisex product? "We are not here," Judge Marion sociological Braizaz. Remains & # 39; link with traditional aesthetic practice sex, whichever "Both are keen to differentiate themselves from the aesthetic work of the other sex".
it "Resistance" divide classes and sexual orientations, says sociologist. The way individuals juggleġġaw with these aesthetic code, however, t "Leeway" the male form can invest more widely in the future.
FP with AFP-Relaxnews